A rainy afternoon in Soho, all of it under cover

Soho does rain well. The pavements shine, the neon looks better and nearly everything worth doing has a door you can duck through. Here is an afternoon in running order: shop, film, lunch, then somewhere warm to sit. Everything is indoors, apart from the dash between doors.

First, browse

Foyles, 107 Charing Cross Road. It sits on the eastern edge of Soho rather than in it, which is close enough in a downpour. It was founded in 1903 by brothers William and Gilbert Foyle, and the current flagship has several floors. London x London puts it at about 200,000 titles and four miles of shelving. Its own page lists Monday to Saturday as nine to nine, so there is no rush. Browsing is free.

Berwick Street. The market here dates to 1778, but the stalls are outdoors, so skip them today. The shops are another matter. In the 1980s the street was known as the Golden Mile of Vinyl, and This Is Soho says it still has central London's largest concentration of independent record shops.

• Reckless Records, 30 Berwick Street. The first record shop on the street, opening there in 1984. Flick through the racks, which is the whole point.
• Sister Ray, 75 Berwick Street. Another long-standing stop on the same stretch. Pair it with Reckless and compare crates.

Opening hours vary shop to shop, so check before you set out.

Then, a film

Curzon Soho, 99 Shaftesbury Avenue. Three screens, a café and a bar, and step-free access. It reopened as the Curzon Soho in October 1998. Broadwick Soho's rainy-day advice is to pick a film, order a glass of wine and sink into a red seat, and that is hard to improve on. Daytime tickets have been quoted from around £8. Look at the listings on the day.

Prince Charles Cinema, 7 Leicester Place. Strictly on the Soho and Chinatown border, at the north-east corner of Leicester Square. It is known for cult, art-house and classic films, recent releases and sing-alongs. Its FAQ lists weekday matinees from £8, with double and triple features at £20 or £26 depending on the ticket. Membership is £15 for a year or £60 for life. Go for a weekday matinee if you want to spend least.

A proper lunch

Randall & Aubin, 14 to 16 Brewer Street. This is the long-lunch pick. It has been a Soho favourite since the 1990s, with tiled floors, candlelight, oysters and champagne, and it opens from noon, so the afternoon is yours. Order oysters and a glass of champagne, then see where the rain leaves you.

Impala, 13 to 14 Dean Street. A North African grill from Super 8, with executive chef Meedu Saad drawing on Egyptian heritage with French and Thai techniques. Time Out named it the best of its 50 best Soho restaurants. Order the pounded white bean dip with herbs and bottarga, the confit pollock and aubergine, or the grilled short rib with rosemary and pepper. Check booking and lunch hours before you go.

Quo Vadis, 26 to 29 Dean Street. A restaurant and members' club, once a brothel and a home to Karl Marx, and nicknamed the Great Dame of Dean Street. Jeremy Lee runs the menu. Lunch is Monday to Saturday, noon to half two, and the Soho Set Menu is £30 for two courses or £35 for three. Bookings have time limits, an hour for one diner and an hour and a half for two to four, so this is the brisk, civilised lunch rather than the lingering one. Book the set menu.

Somewhere warm to sit

The café at Foyles, Level 5. It is run by caterers Leafi and shuts an hour before the shop: Monday to Saturday it is open until eight, with last orders at half seven. Broadwick Soho suggests settling in with a view of the street. Take a book from downstairs and a table by the window.

Maison Bertaux, 28 Greek Street. Opened in 1871 and the oldest pâtisserie in London, founded by French refugees from Paris. It is small and on two floors, with a blue front, and service can be slow, so treat that as the point. It is known for cakes, savouries, scones and speciality teas. Order a scone and a pot of tea, and take the upstairs seat if you can get it.

The order of play

Records and books first, while the shops are fresh. A matinee next, then lunch at Randall & Aubin if you want to linger, or Quo Vadis if you want to be brisk. Finish with tea and cake on Greek Street, or a window table at Foyles. Soho is at its best when the weather leaves you no choice.