Best Italian Delis on Old Compton Street: A Soho Local's Guide
Walk down Old Compton Street any morning and you'll witness one of Soho's most enduring rituals: the pilgrimage to the Italian delis. These aren't just shops, they're institutions that have weathered decades of gentrification, kept their soul intact, and continue to supply everyone from restaurant chefs on Greek Street to home cooks stocking up for Sunday lunch.
As someone who's lived in these streets for years, I can tell you that these delis are where Soho really shows its character. Strip away the tourist traps and chain stores, and you'll find these family-run gems that have been feeding the neighbourhood since before most of us were born.
I. Camisa & Son: The Old Guard
If Old Compton Street has a patriarch, it's Camisa & Son. This family business has been trading here since 1929, surviving the Blitz, countless rent rises, and every food trend that's swept through London. The original shop sits proudly between the chaos of Wardour Street and the quieter stretch towards Dean Street.
What sets Camisa apart isn't just longevity, it's authenticity. The salamis hanging from the ceiling aren't for show, they're there because that's how it's always been done. The Parmigiano-Reggiano is aged properly, the San Marzano tomatoes are the real deal, and the olive oil selection would make a Tuscan weep with joy.
Practically speaking, avoid the weekend crush if possible. Tuesday to Thursday mornings are golden, when you can actually have a conversation with the staff about whether you want the 24-month or 36-month Parmesan. Expect to spend £15-20 for a decent antipasti selection for two, more if you're investing in proper aged cheese or Culatello di Zibello.
Insider tip:
Ask about their made-to-order sandwiches. They don't advertise it widely, but they'll make you a porchetta roll that'll ruin you for any other lunch option on Brewer Street.
Lina Stores: The Soho Institution
Just a stumble away from the Prince Edward Theatre, Lina Stores has been the green-tiled beacon of Italian excellence since 1944. If you've walked Old Compton Street more than twice, you've probably pressed your nose against those vintage windows, marvelling at the perfectly arranged display of fresh pasta, wheels of cheese, and bottles of San Pellegrino that somehow make grocery shopping look glamorous.
What I love about Lina is how they've evolved without losing their essence. Yes, they now have a restaurant on Greek Street and another outpost in King's Cross, but the original deli remains untouched by modern nonsense. The fresh pasta counter is still the star, with tagliatelle, pappardelle, and filled pasta made daily.
The queue can snake down towards Frith Street on Saturdays, but it moves quickly. Staff know their stuff and aren't afraid to steer you towards the less obvious choices. Their house-made pesto is leagues above anything you'll find in Waitrose, and the selection of Italian wines punches well above what you'd expect from a shop this size.
Budget around £8-12 for fresh pasta for four people, double that if you're adding decent Pecorino and pancetta for a proper carbonara. Their truffle products are pricey but worth it for special occasions.
I Camisa (The Second Coming)
Confusingly, there are two Camisas on Old Compton Street. The newer branch, closer to the Berwick Street end, represents the next generation of the family business. It's sleeker, more modern, with better lighting and a more tourist-friendly layout, but don't let that fool you into thinking it's style over substance.
This is where I come for their incredible selection of Italian frozen goods, things you won't find elsewhere in central London. Proper Sicilian arancini, authentic Roman supplì, and gelato that actually tastes like it came from a gelateria in Bologna. The fresh mozzarella counter is also superior to the original shop, with daily deliveries of burrata that's gone by 3pm most days.
The wine selection here leans more towards natural and organic Italian producers, reflecting changing tastes without pandering to trends. Staff are younger but equally knowledgeable, and more likely to recommend something you haven't heard of rather than the obvious Chianti.
Best times to visit:
Early evening, around 5-6pm, when the after-work crowd from the media companies on Wardour Street are grabbing ingredients for dinner. The energy is infectious, and you'll overhear the best restaurant recommendations in Soho.
The Unsung Heroes
While the big names grab attention, don't overlook the smaller operations that keep Old Compton Street's Italian soul alive. The deli counter at Macellaio RC, primarily known as a restaurant, does a roaring trade in takeaway porchetta and house-cured meats.
Pop into any of these places mid-morning and you'll spot chefs from Barrafina on Frith Street, Bocca di Lupo on Archer Street, and half the kitchens in Chinatown picking up last-minute ingredients. That's the real test of quality in Soho: if the professionals trust you, you're doing something right.
Making the Most of Your Visit
Here's what two decades of living in Soho has taught me about shopping these delis: come with a plan but be flexible, bring cash (some still prefer it), and don't be afraid to ask for tastes. The best purchases I've made happened when I trusted the person behind the counter over my own preconceptions.
If you're new to the area, start with Lina for the experience, then work your way to Camisa for the deep cuts. Both will spoil you for supermarket shopping forever, but that's a small price to pay for eating properly in one of London's greatest neighbourhoods.
