De Hems: what to order and when to go
A Dutch pub on the corner of Chinatown with a coaching inn past, a wartime story and a serious Belgian and Dutch beer list.
By Only Soho Editorial
Down a side street on the corner of Chinatown, De Hems at 11 Macclesfield Street does something no other Soho pub bothers with: it commits to being Dutch. The pub's own site calls it London's "one and only authentic Dutch pub", and Londonist notes it is a classic Soho pub if you count this side of Shaftesbury Avenue as Soho. We do. The toilets, Londonist points out, are labelled Heren and Dames.
A little history, with the lore flagged
The site goes back to the Horse & Dolphin, a coaching inn built in 1685, and the current building dates from 1890, when pub architects Saville and Martin rebuilt it for the publican, a Mr Crimmen. According to Wikipedia it was renamed The Macclesfield, then leased by a retired Dutch sea captain known as "Papa" De Hem, who ran it as an oyster house. Sources disagree on exactly when the name changed, so take the dates loosely and the captain as the constant.
The Second World War chapter is the one the pub leans on. Londonist and CAMRA both describe it as a gathering place for Dutch escapees, exiles and resistance organisers, and the pub's site goes further, calling it the "unofficial HQ" of the Dutch resistance. Kim Philby is reputed to have drunk here. In the 1960s Wikipedia lists music business regulars such as Alan Price, Georgie Fame and Andrew Loog Oldham. Treat the more colourful stories, including comedy debuts at the turn of the century, as pub lore rather than gospel.
Upstairs, CAMRA says the Shell Room bar nods to the thousands of oysters once eaten here, reputedly including by the poet Swinburne.
What to order
Start with the beer. CAMRA reports no handpumps, but Dutch and Belgian bottle-conditioned ranges and a good keg range, with Trappist, lambic, sour, fruit and saison styles and an 80 plus beer list online. Wikipedia names Lindeboom, Duvel, Chouffe and Heineken. The pub also claims to sell as many pints of Oranjeboom each year as it once sold oysters, which is a fine reason to order one.
Then the bitterballen. SquareMeal highlights them: deep-fried ragù meatballs, built for sharing over a second round. If you are hungry, the frikandel speciaal is a hot dog-style sausage with red onion, chips, curry ketchup and mayo. Wikipedia adds stoofvlees, the Dutch beef stew, and waffles are on the SquareMeal list too.
One note: the pub's food page now describes mainly classic British pub menus, so the Dutch dishes may be a minority. Look at the current menu before you promise anyone a frikandel. CAMRA also mentions a small bar-food menu if you only want a snack.
For a driver or a quiet night, an alcohol-free Belgian beer was on offer for Dry January, so ask at the bar.
When to go
The pub's site gives 11am until midnight Monday to Saturday and noon until half ten on Sunday. Other listings differ on Monday closing and Sunday opening, so check before you go, especially on a Monday or Sunday.
- Early evening: the easy hour. It suits a pre-theatre bite, and one reviewer on Tripadvisor used it for lunch before a matinee.
- Football nights: the pub shows matches, and advertised Premier League screenings every weekend plus World Cup 2026 games including the Netherlands. Expect a crowd when there is a match on.
- King's Day, 27 April: CAMRA warns that anyone who dislikes crowds should avoid Dutch national holidays, especially this one (26 April if the 27th falls on a Sunday).
- Christmas: the pub is open on Christmas Day and Boxing Day, and its site is taking bookings.
Tripadvisor also lists outdoor seating, handy on a dry evening.
Prices and booking
The price band is cheap to moderate, described by That's Up as lower mid-range, with Tripadvisor showing items from £3 to £22. We have no current pint or dish prices to quote, so check the menu on the day.
You can book through the pub's online booking form or by phone on 020 7437 2494. Walk-ins are the norm in a pub, but for a group or a match night ring ahead. Children and babies count towards the booking number. Carry photo ID the pub will accept if you look young or are visiting from abroad.
The short version
Go early evening, take a Belgian or Dutch beer, share the bitterballen and add the frikandel speciaal if you are staying. It is a corner of Chinatown with a long memory and a proper beer list.
Details: the pub's own site has hours and booking, CAMRA has the beer notes, Wikipedia has the history, and SquareMeal has the dishes.
