Berenjak on Romilly Street: what to order and when to go

Berenjak is a Persian restaurant at 27 Romilly Street, in the thick of Soho. It is modelled on the hole-in-the-wall kabab houses of Tehran, and it is small, loud with charcoal smoke and very hard to walk away from. Note for today: it is closed on Sundays, so the next chance is Monday, which is dinner only.

What it is

The first Berenjak opened on Romilly Street in 2018, backed by JKS Restaurants, the group behind Gymkhana, Hoppers, Trishna, Brigadiers and Bao. The founder and chef is Kian Samyani, who trained at Gymkhana and Brigadiers and was brought up in Iran. The name refers to a crunchy toasted rice snack that Samyani remembers his aunt making on childhood trips to Iran. One blogger, Cherie City, called it the first Iranian restaurant in Soho when it launched.

It has held a Michelin Bib Gourmand since 2019 and still appears in the 2026 Michelin Guide UK. The Infatuation scores it 8.7, calls it London's best Persian restaurant and says the hype is deserved. Time Out rates it Recommended and calls it a boho-chic Persian joint. There are now other Berenjaks in Mayfair and at Borough Market, but this is where it began.

The room

Time Out describes an ultra-bijou front room, a few booths flanking a kitchen counter, leading to a slightly larger back room with cracked plaster walls, foliage and a rug-covered tiled floor. Michelin says the best seat is at the kitchen counter, where you can watch the tandoor and the mangal barbecue at work. It is tight, and some reviewers on Tripadvisor find it cramped and dark, so go knowing that.

What to order

• Dips first. The Infatuation recommends a borderline reckless number of them: black truffle olivieh, hummus and mast o khiar. Foodism also praised the hummus made with black chickpeas, and the panir sabzi, creamy feta with mint.
• Kababs next. Michelin names the lamb shoulder kabab and the coal-cooked aubergine. The Infatuation says the lamb beats the chicken.
• Rice. Choose the saffron rice with zereshk, the barberries.
• Bread. Taftoon, baked in a clay tanoor, and sangak are both charged separately, according to diners.
• Pudding. Foodism singled out the baklava ice cream sandwich.

The Infatuation advises coming as four if you are sitting at the counter, because two people cannot order responsibly.

Prices

Think of it as a splurge by kebab standards. On Deliveroo's listing, kababs run from £26 for the koobideh (minced lamb shoulder) and £28 for the jujeh (chicken) up to £45 for the chenjeh, with the black truffle olivieh at £11.50. Delivery prices may differ from the restaurant's. Michelin files it at two pound signs, and Time Out gives it two out of four. Diners have complained about value, so order with a plan rather than a flourish.

When to go

Lunch and dinner run Tuesday to Friday, and Saturday is open all day, with Monday dinner only. A Tripadvisor reviewer called the lunch menu the best value, so a weekday lunch is the easier way in. The Infatuation says a seven o'clock booking takes stamina, strategy and a minor miracle, so aim earlier or later than the rush. Check the official site for final hours before you set out.

Booking

Tables are booked through SevenRooms, via the restaurant's own website, for up to 18 guests. Counter seats are held for walk-ins, first come, first served. When the counter is full there is a virtual queue, and the booking page warns the wait can take up to three hours at peak times and that large walk-in groups usually cannot be accommodated. You can also phone on 020 3319 8120. Go at opening if you are queuing: one reviewer saw people lining up outside before noon.

Dig deeper

The restaurant's own account of its story is at berenjak.com, and the Michelin Guide entry has the hours and the counter tip. The Infatuation review is the best guide to ordering.