Foyles on Charing Cross Road: when to go and what to do
The great bookshop sits on the edge of Soho, with a Greek Street past. Here is when to go, what to see and where to drink afterwards.
By Only Soho Editorial
Anyone searching for Foyles in Soho is really looking for the bookshop at 107 Charing Cross Road, on the western fringe of the neighbourhood. There is a Greek Street thread to the story, though, and it runs through the old building behind the current shop.
What it is
Foyles is a bookseller with seven stores in England, and this is the flagship. Foyles describes it as four floors of books, plus a café and an auditorium for events. Waterstones has owned the business since 2018. The shop also stocks stationery and gifts, and music: Foyles' own pages mention a dedicated jazz CD and vinyl shop, classical CDs, sheet music, and film on DVD and Blu-ray.
There is no entry charge, and nothing to book for browsing. Tickets are needed only for events.
A short history
Brothers William and Gilbert Foyle founded the business in 1903. The story goes that they failed their civil service exams, offered their now redundant textbooks for sale, and were flooded with offers. Their first central London shop opened in 1904 at 16 Cecil Court, and by 1906 they had moved to Charing Cross Road.
Christina Foyle ran the shop from 1945 to 1999 and was known for the Foyles literary luncheons. At its peak the shop held about four million volumes on more than thirty miles of shelves.
For decades the flagship was the Foyles Building at 111 to 119 Charing Cross Road, which ran back to Manette Street, the little link to Greek Street. It served as the flagship from 1929 to 2014. In 2014 Foyles moved two doors along into the former Central Saint Martins art school building, redesigned by Lifschutz Davidson Sandilands. It was billed as the largest bookstore built in the UK this century, with over 200,000 titles on four miles of shelves.
That building has its own claim on Soho history: it is where the Sex Pistols gave their first public performance, on 6 November 1975, when it was Saint Martin's School of Art.
The old Foyles site was redeveloped by Soho Estates as Ilona Rose House, a 13-storey office and retail building that includes 12 to 13 Greek Street. Heritage groups objected to the plans, including SAVE Britain's Heritage, the Victorian Society and Historic England. Soho Estates said the listed building on the site would be renovated and its historic Greek Street facades repaired.
When to go
The shop's usual hours are Monday to Saturday, nine till nine, and Sunday from half eleven until six. Foyles varies hours around holidays, so check its shop page before a special trip. Opening time is the calm hour for browsing; that is our judgement rather than a published fact. The café closes earlier than the shop, and tables fill up, so do not leave it late.
What to see and order
Head up to the café on Level 5. Foyles says it serves Extract coffee and Canton loose-leaf tea, with oat and soya milk options, plus wine, Prosecco, lager and ale. The food is a rolling seasonal menu made on site, with vegan and vegetarian choices. Order a pot of Canton tea and something simple. Reviewers on Tripadvisor call it pricey, so look at the menu board before you sit.
Events run in the Level 6 Auditorium, from author talks to signings. One recent sample ticket was £10 general, £8 for Foyalty members and £25 with a book. The programme changes constantly, so look at the Foyles events page before you go.
For after: The French House, 49 Dean Street
From Charing Cross Road, walk into Soho and find The French House, 49 Dean Street. It began life in 1891 as the York Minster and is still called the French pub. It serves beer only in half-pints, except on 1 April, Pints Day. CAMRA says there is no cask ale, and notes that wine outsells beer.
Order a half of Meteor, which The Infatuation singles out, and if you are hungry, the steak frites. The Infatuation names Thursdays for the steak frites. The bar does not take reservations, so it is first come, first served. Upstairs is the restaurant, with head chef Neil Borthwick, open Monday to Saturday for lunch and dinner. It runs two sittings, the menu changes daily, and bookings open 60 days ahead and need card details. Reviewers say tables are hard to come by, so the bar is the easier and cheaper way in.
Read more on Foyles' Charing Cross Road page, the Londonist guide to The French House, and the history of the old Foyles Building.
